Alexandre Bordier and Marie Maier’s wine refuge (tomette tile floors, bare stone walls, exposed rafters) provides refuge to Tours’ natural wine drinkers. For us the other night, to go with our cheese and charcuterie board (rillettes and rillons from La Maison Galland, farm-fresh sainte-maure, sheep’s milk, Salers, Saint-Nectaire cheeses) and some lovely La Quiberonnaise canned goods served with Bordier butter, Alex served native grape varieties by the glass… which is rare! The dishes of the day are also worth considering (eg.: grilled sausage from Emmanuel Chavassieux with fries and locally grown organic salad) and homemade desserts (eg.: a plum-almond tart or a chocolate lava cake) prepared by Marie. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Nul n’est censé ignorer la Loire (or, ignorance of the Loire is no excuse) as the French pun goes: a Chenin from Mathieu Cosme (€4.50 a glass), a rosé from Julien Prével (€23 a bottle), a Sauvignon from Noëlla Morantin (€35)…

PRICE: Charcuterie-cheese boards and plates €8-12, desserts €4.50.