Epiro (Nice)

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A graphic tiled bar, yellow barstools, owners with sing-song accents…. Epiro sure takes you to the heart of Italy! After opening a modern osteria in Rome back in 2014, the good-natured duo, Alessandra Viscardi and Marco Mattana, duplicated Epiro right near the Nice harbor. The night we went, there were highs and lows: a less-than-legendary fritto misto with spring onions, zucchini and cod; rich pieces of roasted Sicilian lamb glazed with jus; precious purple gnocchi with cod, peas and chanterelle mushrooms; epiro-technic ravioli covered in melted butter and Parmesan; before a taste-bud-tickling wild blueberry sorbet. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Vini naturali: a rosé from Mario Macciocca in the Latium (€7 a glass), a red blend from La Cantina Lammidia in Abruzzo (€26 a bottle), a macerated wine from Azienda Denavolo in Emilie-Romagne (€38)…

PRICE: Plates €8-26.

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