restaurant

Istrenn

Istrenn (Hirel)

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As you’re driving down the D155 highway that runs along the Mont Saint-Michel Bay, you won’t want to miss this oyster cabin decked out with a “restaurant” sign. Inside, the décor is questionable, but the plates will take your breath away! Trained under Sulpice and Marcon, the young Kevin Dubois brings the surrounding terroir to life (vegetables from La Ferme des Beaux Bois in Cherrueix, oysters from Juhel au Vivier, mushrooms from Karl in Roz-Landrieux, salt meadow lamb), along with whatever the tides bring in: eel, red mullet, langoustines, John Dory, etc. For us, the day we went for lunch: very fresh marinated sardine fillets sprinkled with sea beans and served over an eggplant-basil compote – plus a tomato sorbet we could have done without; tasty monkfish braised in herb butter and paired with mussels, mini tomatoes and eggplant; before a formidable summer berry and verbena tartlet, invigorated by a thyme-lemon sorbet. A few other details: the homemade fish & chips, much like the oven-roasted lamb devoured by the next table over, would also make excellent choices. // S.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Beautiful organic finds: a Saint-Romain white from Alain Gras (€7 a glass), Pierre à Feu, a Coteaux-du-Vendômois white from Patrice Colin (€26 a bottle), Mûrier, an Angevin red from Stéphane Rocher (€29).

PRICE: À la carte €28-45, menus €27-40 (dinner).

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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