The Buttes Chaumont neighborhood has been buzzing with even more good vibes ever since the much-celebrated arrival of épicier Dan Humphris – who shuttered his eponymous grocery shops back in October 2024 – and British chef Chris Woolard, a discerning talent who did a stint at Le Verre Volé before heading off to savor la dolce vita for a few years. Their new venture, Gilou? It’s a free-spirited bistro with exposed rafters and gingham paper tablecloths, complete with a miraculous upstairs terrace that whisks around 15 guests off to a dreamy little corner of Paris. And the plates keep the good vibes going, always prepared with precision and particularly thoughtful seasonings, from the lamb belly with fries and caper mayonnaise to the welcome Italian-inspired dishes, like pollack and polenta or pork ragù tagliatelle. Featured on the menu the day we visited: a stratospheric tartare of veal from the verdant Aldudes Valley, launched sky high by tonnato sauce and pane carasau (Sardinian flatbread); al dente spaghetti in a rich butter sauce with understated crab; incredible ricotta and chard agnolotti, dressed in a brown butter sage sauce; before a creamy dessert of homemade pistachio ice cream studded with candied cherries. · Adrien Nouviaire

FEELING THIRSTY? Dan has put together a devilishly appealing selection of natural wines, like Sur La Butte, a mix of Anjou cabernets produced by the Château de Plaisance (€9 a glass), Soif Du Mal, a Roussillon white from Les Foulards Rouges (€36 a bottle) or even En Billat, a poulsard by Ganevat (€85 a bottle), chosen from an impressive collection of Jura vintages during our last visit. And if you want something other than wine, there’s Piaf beer from Les Bières de Belleville (€9.50 for 500 ml) or grape juice from the Domaine de la Marinière (€3.90 for 250 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €19-24 (weekday lunch), à la carte €41-53.