Taps away! At this wine bar, there’s nothing but impeccably sourced wines served straight from the tap, just as Céline Maguet and Vincent Ribault taught us to expect at their Pigalle wine shop, Soif. From there, they’ve nabbed Héloïse Arnault, now a partner in Marnes Bleues (named after the marlstone that makes up the local terrain), with backup from Sabah Borg, who used to work at Giclette and Le Café du Coin in Le Pré-Saint-Gervais. So, what’s flowing? There’s a grenache blanc and vermentino blend from Hérault-based wine merchant Wine Drop (€5 a glass) and a beaujolais from Nicolas Chemarin (€30 a liter, for drinking in-house), plus plenty of bottles lining the shelves – such as Bathyscaphe, a chenin from Margot Rousseau-Petit and Natalia Santo (€31 a bottle) or an auxey-duresses from La Chaume des Lies winery (€41), all ready and waiting to pop open on site for a €10 corkage fee. Over in the kitchen, Vittoria Durand (ex-Gargouille and Zinzin) whips up some irresistible small plates, like homemade terrine, kimchi œuf mayo and pork spider steak with sweet potato polenta… all under the adoring gaze of Slip, Héloïse’s cocker spaniel and the bar’s official mascot. · Carole Scarolle