Ah, Cadoret, mon amour! When it put up the shutters, this corner of the 19th arrondissment went into mourning. But that was before siblings Léa and Louis-Marie Fleuriot – who ran the place for eight years and even snagged the 2019 Fooding Biggest Crush award – unexpectedly passed the torch to the mischievous trio behind Buttes: Clément Vezat, Pierre Forest and Benoît Baud. After a light refurb (don’t worry, the mosaic tiled floor and the zinc-topped bar are still intact), they brought in chef Alice Neman (ex-Auberge de la Roche and Maison Ailhon) and sommelier Emilie Bouchet (ex-Septime and Soces) to spoil the neighborhood just like before. The night we dropped by, we were treated to: unforgettable glazed sweetbread skewers with a frothy peppercorn sauce and a dollop of labneh; grilled gilthead bream atop over a sumptuous white coco bean stew with peppers and hazelnuts; followed by a jaw-dropping chocolate mousse served intentionally lukewarm, hiding thinly sliced poached pears in its center, with a scoop of hay ice cream. Phew, happiness restored ! · Omar Ciboulette

FEELING THIRSTY? Emilie has some high-flying wines hiding in her cellar: Attention Chenin Méchant from Nicolas Réau in Saumur (€7.50 a glass), Bon Jour, a white Anjou from Félix Guillonneau (€35 a bottle) and Les Insouciantes, a red blend from the aptly named Didier Grappe in the Jura (€68).

PRICE: Set menus €22-25 (weekday lunch), à la carte €40-68.