The three Souksavanh brothers are doubling down on Rue de Belleville! A (literal) stone’s throw away from their iconic restaurant Lao Siam, Alexandre, Frédéric and Nicolas would like to introduce you to Ama Siam, a brutalist spot designed by Fragos + Lecourtier (terrazzo floors, corrugated plaster walls) that’s been pimped out with flashy barstools. What should you expect? Melting pot cuisine that tells the story of their Laotian, Vietnamese and Chinese roots, inspired by the dishes mama Souksavanh used to make. Our lunch that day put on a fine display: incredible betel leaf garnished with dried shrimp, ginger, shallots, shredded coconut, peanuts and chilies; unusual pork/mackerel/leek pâté with country bread; a delicious sticky rice cake with dried shrimp; a marvelous bass served whole and seasoned with lemongrass, garlic and chili; a less impressive poached chicken on a bed of ginger rice plus a fermented bean sauce; and some cheeky desserts to round out this elaborate meal, like a corn kernel and coconut milk tapioca, or homemade ginger ice cream served with a lotus blossom cookie. // J.G.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a beautiful collection of natural wines: a Muscadet from the Domaine de la Pépière (€5 a glass), a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€28 a bottle), a white Arbois from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€48)… Along with some craft beers: Oedipus, Gamma, etc.

PRICE: À la carte €26-38.