When the warrior chefs (Aizpitarte, Grébaut, Chartier, Hermé) come back down to earth, they stay hydrated and pamper their bellies by heading over to Le Baratin. With Raquel (Carena) in the kitchen and “Pinuche” (Philippe Pinoteau) taking care of the wines, over a 31-year career, this wine bar at 3 rue Jouye-Rouve has proved itself to be the pioneer address of breathtaking bistrology. Served in a space with tectonic tile floors and an old-fashioned zinc bar, that night the blackboard menu suggested a red mullet en escabèche, electroshocked by a Xérès vinegar and red onions (€13); beef cheek confit in a red wine sauce, flash-seared and crispy, and served with sautéed vegetables (€20); along with a vanilla pudding or an almond-raspberry tart (€8) for dessert. Another house advantage is its love of unearthing good wines: a white Arbois from the Domaine de Saint-Pierre (€6.50 a glass), a very rare Assyrtiko from Hatzidakis in Santorini (€42 a bottle), a Baux-de-Provence red from the Domaine Hauvette (€54). There’s an unbeatable €19 set menu (lunch). À la carte €38-55 (dinner). // M.J-.D.