Dilia la cave

A stone’s throw from his lovely bistro Dilia, chef Michele Farnesi has doubled down by opening up his very own wine shop – an azure blue façade, wooden shelves, wicker suspension lamps. That’s where you’ll find the gems that the Lombard-born sommelier Mirko Favalli (ex-Caffè Stern) serves at the restaurant: 350 French and Italian labels that are mostly clean, some of which are impossible to find elsewhere… A brief look: Coenobium Ruscum, an orange wine produced by Trappist nuns from Vitorchiano in the Latium region of Italy (€17 a bottle), Joseph, a Lombard pet’ nat’ produced by Luca Francesconi (€22); #12, a Pinot-blanc from Ansitz Dornach in the Dolomites (€28)… As an added bonus? There are a few well-chosen spirits, like the calvados from Julien Frémont (€38) or the Pasta Rossa, a deeply luxurious peach eau-de-vie from the Venetian distillery Capovilla (€120). // Adrien Bir 

The bullet-proof bottle: A 2016 Montepulciano from the Tuscan Godiolo estate (€15).