It’s been jam-packed ever since opening in 1985, and Lao Siam undoubtedly deserves a Nobel Prize for its Southeast Asian specialties. Their offering is so vast that you really should know what you want before going in… Our recommendation from the sixty-something options? Crispy rice squares that you dip into a delicious shrimp sauce (€9.80); classic imperial noodles with pork (€6.80); small, juicy Laotian sausages (€9.50); barely cooked spicy shrimp (€10); fried chicken that you’ll clean down to the bone, with chili sauce and homemade pickles (€9.80); vermicelli noodles with big prawns, ginger, garlic and a homemade chili sauce (€13.50); and an ultra-comforting emerald island composed of green tea sticky rice in a sea of coconut milk, sprinkled with sesame seeds (€6). To drink, there’s a classic Singha (€4.80 for 330 ml), a white Coteaux-du-Lyonnais from La Maison Cluset-Roch (€26 a bottle), or a red Languedoc from Axel Prüfer (€42). À la carte €20-30. // C.D.