Biggest crush of 2019
Ahhh, this place is always on our minds… With its harlequin floors, magnetic zinc bar and dining room where the sun shines but doesn’t blind you, the comforting spot from Léa and Louis Fleuriot (a brother-sister duo, with the former in the kitchen and the latter behind the bar) is a lucky find. Take the prix-fixe menu the other day at lunch: an excellent slice of jambon persillé with turnip, green bean and cauliflower piccalilli (spicy Indian pickles) for a Bollywood touch; a super funky cut of juicy free-range pork loin with glazed mushrooms, radishes and new potatoes; before a CAC 40 level financier for dessert, dripping with poached peach and an addictive whipped cream. At apéro hour, Louis sends out a few snacks, including a nice smoked beef tongue from Austuries and a really delicious ham and cheese croissant. At night, the house puts on a good show: blanquette de veau, coco bean and mussel ragù, incredible crème caramel… // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Artful nectars, to say the least: a Loire Cabernet franc from the Domaine des Sablonnettes (€5.50 a glass), a Vosges Pinot noir from the Domaine Durrmann (€30 a bottle), a Teutonic Silvaner by 2Naturkider (€48)…
PRICE: Set menu €18-21 (weekday lunch), plates €8-23 (dinner and Saturday lunch).