Bokbar brings a dose of Scandi calm to the heights of Belleville. Behind large windows, book-lined walls and the soft hum of Abba on the stereo, the hygge atmosphere is immaculate, helped along by the smell of freshly brewed coffee. At the counter, Scandinavian-born former linguist Natalie Magnusson works the coffee machine and bakes her grandmother’s old recipes, all of them dangerously good: soft Mazarin cakes (made with marzipan) scented with cardamom, lemon or chocolate; blueberry and raspberry shortbread; cinnamon or cardamom rolls. A fuss-free pleasure at its best, especially first thing in the morning with a Zoégas filter coffee (€6), unless you prefer an espresso made with beans from Gringo roasters – also available as a latte, flat white, macchiato… · Anna Elisabeth

THE HIDDEN GEM: The aforementioned lemon Mazarin, pure heaven (€5).