Trouble

Trouble? That’s the name of the explosively flavorful Burgundy Chardonnay served on tap here by Nicolas Phillips, a former member of the Fulgurances team. Now inside what used to be Pompette, with cream hues on the inside and blue on the outside, he’s teamed up with Stefano De Carli, who’s fresh from stints at Passerini and Mokoloco. Together, they serve up classic small plates for lovers of high tables and corner bars (and terraces perfect for watching the sunset): line-caught Albacore tuna crudo with tomato water and black mullet rillettes; better still, flash-seared beef tongue on a bed of smoked cod roe taramasalata green with parsley oil and wild fennel, all topped with fried enoki mushrooms; or for a riotous Italian twist, some incredible cuttlefish Milanese (light breadcrumb breading, firm texture) with parsley aioli and friggitelli (sweet Italian peppers), all topped with bottarga. Still hungry for more? There some ecstasy-inducing culurgiònes, those classic homemade Sardinian ravioli stuffed with potatoes, pecorino and mint, paired with raw cuttlefish, an ’nduja condiment and squid ink. Need to regain solid ground? There’s an adorable “tiramichou” oozing with creamy mascarpone, with a lovely craquelin topping for added crunch. // Adrien Nouviaire

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention and organic or biodynamic wines: a Beaujolais white from the Domaine de La Gapette (€7), a Lombardian merlot from the Castello di Stefanago (€8); an Alsatian pinot blanc from the Domaine Brand (€39 a bottle); and a vermentino and grenache blanc blend created exclusively with the Domaine de la Combe au Mas (€29). As for the beer, there’s an Express beer from the Brasserie du Grand Paris (€4.50 for a half-pint).
PRICE: Plates €4-22.