What’s the new winning trio of hipness in the 9th arrondissement? Métro-boulot-Lolo! In their fantastic red room that combines crimson tiled walls, a vermillion bar and fiery red neon lights, Loïc Minel, aka “Lolo” (ex-Hôtel Grand Amour), and Christophe Juville (Ippon, Figure, the guy behind the Spok cafés) bring the neighborhood to life with their collection of low-intervention wines. Meanwhile, the kitchen sends out razor-sharp small plates, whipped up by Maud Saddok (who used to work at Goguette and Fripon): duck heart croquettes with loads of jalapeño mayonnaise; masterfully made Greyzini zucchini with smoked stracciatella and nasturtiums; hand-cut veal tartare with apricots and Thai basil; thunderous barbecued octopus tucked into a lovely rouille sauce; tomatoes glazed in tonnato sauce dotted with shiso; before a very straightforward raspberry and cherry pavlova for dessert. // Albert Gredinbar

FEELING THIRSTY? A Savoie jaquère produced by Mathieu Apffel (€35 a bottle), an Ardèche syrah from La Ferme des 7 Lunes (€43) or, chosen from an Erasmus-like selection of bottles, a Catalan grenache blanc from Le Celler Frisach (€6 a glass).

PRICE: Tapas €7-13.