De la grande cuisinomie

Restaurant Brion (Paris)

© Salomé Rateau

  • Date
  • share

Opening your own restaurant for the very first time is always an emotional experience. And when it’s bon, it’s really Brion! The brand-new spot from Geoffrey Lengagne, a talented chef who worked for 15-odd years for Mathieu Viannay in Lyon, Pierre Gagnaire in London, Thomas Keller in New York and Jérôme Banctel in Paris, ticks off all the boxes for a cool neighborhood restaurant in Paris: waxed concrete floors, wooden furniture, an open kitchen… and a certain extra sparkle which lights up the plates. The day we went for lunch, the €36 prix-fixe menu included: some stunning marinated endives tucked into a bagna cauda cream with anchovies, caper leaves, smoked paprika oil and raw green apple; a graceful roasted bass medallion deliciously surrounded by a whipped green curry and buttermilk sauce, flame-charred leeks, oyster mushrooms and argan oil; and for dessert, a fantastico plump cannolo stuffed with Meyer lemon and yuzu cream, enriched with sorrel, black lime powder and chipotle, going head-to-head with an explosively flavorful mezcal granita. Not the kind of meal we’re likely to forget anytime soon! // Will Tippin 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A naturalist selection that flirts with the Savoie and Jura departments (featuring, for example, a lovely savagnin ouillé from Rijckaert at €15 a glass, or La Pente, a jacquère from the Domaine des Côtes Rousses at €41 a bottle), but which also boasts a Fanny Sabre pommard for special occasions (€128). 
PRICE: : Prix-fixe lunch menus €36-49 (3-4 courses), dinner menus €69 (4 courses, provided that everyone at the table orders it), with a vegetarian option available for each course. À la carte €42-56 (dinner). 

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The new Le Fooding France Guide is available!

Inside the latest edition, discover our top 400 restaurants, bars, wine cellars, shops and hotels from all over France that’ll be the talk of the town in 2024. Anything else? Our 16-strong list of award winners you’ll not find anywhere else, and nine articles which shine a light on the taste of the times!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… And after conquering France, Belgium is Le Fooding guide’s latest playground!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.