Caillebotte is fine art! Who can believe that Franck Baranger and Edouard Bobin have been delighting bistrotter appetites in this sober, chic space designed by Camille Flammarion (blond wood, peacock blue banquettes, atmospheric suspension lamps…) for six years now. The night we went, from behind the marbled counter with views of the windowed kitchen, we savored a perfect “little” prix-fixe menu: lovely mackerel escabèche with a tangy coconut milk emulsion and a sprinkling of dill; a delicate Breton meagre steak cooked skin side down, with saffron pearl onions, fennel and an explosively flavorful bouillabaisse reduction; before a well-made and slightly salty ganache over Breton shortbread, served with an excellent rosemary ice cream. And on the lunch set menu: meagre gravlax with leeks, herbed cream and horseradish; free-range pork chops with parsley, bulbous chervil and a coffee jus; figs roasted with red wine and vinegar, paired with granola and an almond ice cream. // O.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s an impressive selection of wines: a Loire white from Yves Cuilleron (€7 a glass), an Auxey-Duresses red from Vaudoisey-Creusefond (€8), a Sancerre blanc from Matthieu Delaporte (€38 a bottle) or a Gard red from David Rey (€35).
PRICE: Dish of the day €14, set menu €19 (lunch), prix-fixe menus €38 (lunch and dinner) and €49 (dinner), à la carte €41-48.