Caillebotte (Paris)

© Yves Nespoulous

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Much like the eponymous painter, Caillebotte captures the light with its big windowed walls, blonde wood and floating suspension lamps. In the space designed by Camille Flammarion, acolytes Franck Baranger and Edouard Bobin have been running this vibrant, impressionist bistro for the last eight seasons. The other day at lunch, the €38 prix-fixe menu (also served at night) was a fine demonstration: a peaceful pea and mint velouté with crème fraîche, dotted with radishes and crushed hazelnuts; a fun fillet of pollack slow-roasted in olive oil, swimming in a pool of fregola sarda moistened by a saffron mussel jus with crumbled chorizo; before a fauvist dessert combining quartered strawberries, rhubarb compote, peppercorn shortbread and tarragon ice cream. Another option available only at lunch is the set menu for less than 20 bucks: a mussel raviolo with pickled shallot and mustard seeds, spinach and a full-bodied jus de marinière reduction; pollack with broccoli rabe, roasted red onions and a smoked paprika sabayon… // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s an academic wine selection: a Loire white from Yves Cuilleron (€7 a glass), a Sancerre white from Matthieu Delaporte (€38 a bottle), or a Gard red from David Rey (€35)…

PRICE: Set menu €19 (weekday lunch), menus €38 (lunch and dinner) and €49 (dinner), à la carte €41-48.

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