The façade will have you thinking this is an old-fashioned épicerie, but step inside to find a beautiful modern spot (brick walls, nice vintage touches, a shiny slicer) where the former owner of Les Caves Madeleine, Laurent Brelin, and his Japanese other-half, Rika, serve the best the terroir has to offer at the bar: homemade country terrine, three-layered croque monsieurs, Charolais tataki made with steak from the Moron butcher in Pommard, jambon-beurre sandwiches made with farmer’s butter from Simone Caillot and ham off the bone from Charles Thaurin, etc. But best of all are the stylish dishes of the day, like the incredible Corsican pork figatellu from Oronce de Beler, served with organic beluga lentils, spring onions, carrots, lovage, parsley and fennel… For dessert, there’s a dark chocolate mousse that’s not too sweet, or freshly made waffles sprinkled with powdered sugar. And in the glasses: Santenay from La Maison en Belles Lies (€7 a glass) or a Saint-Aubin red, Le Ban de Derain (€42 a bottle). Plates €7-16, à la carte €20-30. // D.N.