La Fleur au Fusil
After trying his hand at seafood in the capital (Fish La Boissonnerie), the bearded Téo Barazer left to join his sweetheart, Marion Méténier, and revive his father-in-law’s Medoc bistro. Redone like a country ballroom, this place with its banquettes and industrial light fixtures is beloved by local hunters, thirsty diners and winemaker friends. The other day the menu featured: a glamorous sea bean, market potato, smoked haddock and lump roe salad; a beautiful line-caught meagre steak with pearly flesh, al dente beets and peppery thyme mashed potatoes; before a slice of moussey tiramisu intensified by a praline feuillantine and a tantalizing cacao sorbet. At night, the house’s star dishes file out: pork pâté en croûte from the Ferme de Clavisy, pasta with bass bottarga and langoustine bisque, etc. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural-oriented wines: Le Bordeaux du Paysan from Nicolas Roux in red and white (€4 a glass), La Fleur Garderose, a Saint-Émilion grand cru or Séléné, a Beaujolais from Sylvère Trichard (€34 a bottle).
PRICE: Menu €14.50 (weekday lunch), à la carte €38-46.