Wild wines and cheeses: that’s what Clément Nadaud is all about, who toured the French countryside visiting various producers to learn the ins and outs before opening Maison Lichette. From the moment you step inside this spot with green tones and lots of wood, you know what you’re in for: to the left, there are bottles of wine (around 80 labels), to the right, cheeses showcased in a refrigerated display case. Of the good creamy finds from France and abroad, consider the fresh tomme from the Aubrac (which is even better when prepared as aligot, or in an omelet or a gratin), a wheel of Horloger – a semi-hard Swiss Jura cheese with an intensely buttery flavor, along with Calabrian pecorino pepato, or, in the winter, a classic collection of raclette cheeses – plain, smoked, or with porcini mushrooms or onions. Bring it all home with a beautiful bottle, like a lively and organic sparkling vouvray produced by François and Julien Pinon, or Les Cousines, a fruity and tangy biodynamic merlot from the Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours. Who’s up for another lichette (French for “a little more”)? · Marcellin Caillou

THE HIDDEN GEM: The (rare) Grand Meaulnes, a goat cheese from the Périgord Vert with subtle notes of thyme essential oil (€7 each).