Tanguy Laviale is a man with plenty of Ressources. After having redirected Bordeaux along the natural wine route, the captain of the now-closed bistro Garopapilles (Le Fooding’s winner of the Best Cave à manger award in 2016) opened up a new vessel with chef Daniel Gallacher (chef at Racines) and master sommeliers Maxime Courvoisier (ex-Fleur de Pavé in Paris) and Tom Faucoeur (who used to work at Garopapilles). In this classy wine-forward restaurant anchored along Rue Fondaudège, choose one of two seating options: facing the bar (a large, padded banquette, mismatched mirrors, industrial light fixtures) or the other, more secretive one, at the end of a hallway overlooking the impressive kitchen. That’s where we treated ourselves to a demonstration of these perfectly calibrated plates: glorious porcini mushrooms from the Médoc served both raw and roasted, with purslane and lardo di Colonnata, all surfing on a delicate bed of tarragon-infused labneh; first-rate scallops atop slow-cooked fennel, hidden under an evanescent potato and brown butter emulsion; intensely flavorful breaded red mullet happily paired with kale and some tangy raw cream; stunning slow-roasted free-range quail (thigh and breast meat) alongside the season’s last haricots verts, a rich jus, pickled wild garlic and wild garlic blossoms; before the heady finale, an geometric apple pressé accompanied by sheep’s milk sorbet and miso caramel. // Raoul Taburin 

FEELING THIRSTY? Over 600 references that celebrate Tanguy’s cooking: Petits Cailloux, a Anjou white from Stéphane Rocher (€9 a glass), Le Grand Blanc, a Provence blend produced by Henri and Théo Milan (€59 a bottle), a Saint-Joseph red from Gangloff (€95)… 
PRICE: Menus €43 (3 courses), €60 (4 courses) and €75 (5 courses).