Time for the yearly pilgrimage to La Merenda and for a round of Who’s Who in Nice. Sitting snuggly on a wooden barstool a million miles away from the tourist traps at Cours Saleya, we come back for a taste of the localist cuisine made by Dominique Le Stanc (the former head chef at Le Chanteclerc at the Hotel Negresco). To be eaten in whatever order: Menton tart (a type of onion pissaladière, minus the anchovies); pesto pasta exploding with flavor; tripe à la niçoise served with crispy panisse; extremely tender oxtail à l’orange with creamy polenta; a legendary lemon tart…. Fill your glasses with Côtes-de-Provence from the Château Les Crostes in rosé or white (€6 a glass, €29 a bottle) or, better yet, a Niçois Bellet (€48). À la carte €30-38. But FYI, they don’t take cards and there’s no phone for reservations. So be sure to get there early! // M.F.