Le Bar des Oiseaux
With its crowd of aficionados and its décor unlike anything you’ve ever seen (Banksy tags, portraits of a nude Frida Kahlo, graffitied walls and albatross light fixtures), Armand Crespo’s (Bistrot d’Antoine, Peixes) lively den hasn’t finished beating its wings! Well-deserved success considering the plates chef Emilien Henschoot (ex-Bistrot d’Antoine) sent out the night we were there: delightful porcini mushrooms sautéed with garlic and mixed with gnocchi and pancetta (€14); a half-pigeon served pink with a beautiful slice of country bacon, pan-fried chanterelles and a deep jus de viande (€19); before a light pistachio floating island (€7). And to stay hydrated, there are no fewer than 65 mostly organic wines: a Pinot gris from Paul Kubler in Alsace (€5 a glass), a Costière-de-Nîmes from Claude Boutes (€5), an immense Drappier Carte d’or (€70 a bottle), a tender Chenin from the Château de Fosse-Sèche (€49), a natural P’tit Pithon from Olivier Pithon (€26)… Set lunch menu €20. À la carte €31-44. // G.LeP.