There’s no point in calling since La Merenda doesn’t have a telephone – it’s best to just stop by the day before to secure a reservation at this legendary, unpretentious restaurant: timeworn tomette tile floors, a ceiling shrouded in curtains, old mustard jars for glasses… For ages now, Dominique Le Stanc (the former chef at the Negresco) has been brilliantly exhibiting all the classics of Alpes-Maritimes cuisine, served on paper tablecloths. The other night, as with so many others: a zucchini blossom beignet that started things off right; stunning tagliatelle turned green with pistou, the local version of pesto; an ultra-tender Provencal stew with a mountain of panisse fritters; small, stuffed veggies; before the iconic dessert, a sweet chard pie with pine nuts and raisins. Nice’s art de vivre at its finest! // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Nothing too crazy here: a conventional Côtes-de-Provence white (€6.50 a glass), a local red from the Domaine de Toasc (€49 a bottle) or a craft beer from Le Comté (€8 for 330 cl).

PRICE: À la carte €31-43. Payment by card not accepted.