Best cave à manger Guide 2010
Opened in 2008 by Brigitte Cazalas and Luc Desrousseaux, Le Gibolin is still one of the most radical natural wine spots in all of France! How to sum it up in a few words? An unadorned cave à manger (bistro tables and chairs, shelves packed full of bottles), incredible natural wines (Maximum from Carmarans at €35 a bottle, Tavel from Pfifferling for €32, HJV from the Domaine Carterole in Banyuls for €30), really good cuisine with no shortcuts and wonderfully zany staff. The day we went for lunch, on the €35 menu: marvelous purple artichokes barigoule boosted by fresh ginger – even better with a Réserve des Seigneurs, a Cairanne from the Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin (€5.50); a beautiful slice of perfectly pan-fried monkfish tail, served with crushed tomatoes and fennel confit – perfect with the Régnié from Guy Breton (€5.50); before a good family-style clafoutis, preferable to the baba au rhum that was absolutely drunk on rum… Set menus €28-35. // J.G.