Best cave à manger Guide 2010
Now here’s a real cave à manger: the smell of fried foods, the sound of popping corks, bottles scattered around, local staff! Brigitte Cazalas has an arsenal of living wines ready to serve: Temps des Cerises, Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Saint-Jo from Hervé Souhaut…. While seated around a Formica-topped table with friends, sponge them all up with small bistro plates made by Luc Desrousseaux (ex-Vin de Zinc and Chapeau Melon, in Paris). The day we went, on the €35 menu: piquillo peppers stuffed with salt cod – or a chilled zucchini velouté with whole zucchini and zucchini blossom tempura; an intense roasted guinea fowl thigh with giant fries and green salad – or juicy cod with a vegetable casserole; then a baba au rhum that was drenched in rum – or a big slice of clafoutis. And in our glasses? An energetic Hop Là from Le Bout du Monde (€5), a glass of Lassaigne €12) and an incredible Tavel vintage from L’Anglore (€5.50). Menus €28-35. // A.S.