Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 best bistro
In this former neighborhood dive that was given a chic makeover (a brass bar, moldings on the ceilings, an open kitchen) and was awarded Le Fooding’s Best Bistro of 2015 award, the Levha sisters will take you on a trip from Paris to Manila. Starting at lunch, with an unstoppable menu for €27, which included the day we went: the first white asparagus of the season swimming around in a soy vinaigrette and served with black mushrooms and slivers of bottarga; a majestic chuck steak shot through the stratosphere with a wild garlic-green mustard sauce and braised Pontoise cabbage; and to end the meal, a superb chocolate tart, pimped out with whipped cream that was as light as a feather! At night, the menu gets even fancier: line-caught cod, suckling lamb, farmer’s pork chops… But you can also hang around the inspired bar, while savoring some delicious zakouskis (asiatomic clams with Thai basil, divine puntarelle tempura with hummus, or tender tofu croquetas for €8), while tasting a few wines: a very drinkable Anjou Bois-Rouge from Mosse (€7 a glass) or a white Intravineuse from La Sorga (€38 a bottle). Menu €27 at lunch, zakouskis €8, à la carte €45-69. // G.L.P.