Best Bistro of 2015
Katia and Tatiana Levha, Le Guide Fooding 2019’s Women of the year
Behind this corner bistro’s windowed façade, you’ll discover a chic little palace complete with moldings, a painted ceiling and a golden brass bar. Dressed in white button-ups and blue aprons, the team managed by the Levha sisters (Tatiana in the kitchen, Katia in the dining room) grinds away seven days a week, from early dawn until after dark. What’s on the plates? Addictive traditional French cooking that’s been reinvigorated without shaking things up too much, spurred on by Asian escapades and incredible zakouskis (“hors-d’oeuvres” in Russian), like grilled Padrón peppers, shrimp sautéed alive or mussels with Thai basil… For us, the night we went: raw cuttlefish tartare with small risina beans topped with a shamanic coconut-ginger-lemongrass-vin jaune cream; an immense whiting à la Colbert wrapped up in a black garlic butter sauce and illuminated with herbs, zucchini and fried onions; before a sinfully good peach melba poached with raspberries and paired with a raspberry-peach-chili sorbet. It’s worth noting that breakfast is served from 8:30am: eggs and soldiers, waffles, toasted brioche topped with salmon gravlax and chili-infused whipped cream… // M.J.-D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Choose froma whole host of supernatural bottles: an Austrian white from Georg Schmelzer (€8 a glass), a Roussillon red from Jean-François Nicq (€34 a bottle), a Saumur blanc from Aymeric Hillaire (€46)…
PRICE: Breakfast €12-20, zakouskis €10, à la carte €41-69.