Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 best bistro
Girl power at 32 rue Saint-Maur! In their almost anonymous space, the Levha sisters – Tatiana, the eldest, in the kitchen, and Katia, the youngest, in the dining room – elevate the art of bistronomy to its pinnacle, with their unique, worldly approach, putting a twist on each dish with herbs, spices and seeds…. Marinated in soy sauce, the runny soft-boiled egg is backed up by a shellfish jelly wrapped around a few soba noodles; the tender roasted chicken is served with petits pois à la française and a comforting yogurt sauce; the juicy strawberries with elderflowers proudly top a Breton shortbread crust covered in rhubarb jam. And don’t miss their incredible appetizers, the homemade zakouski: fried duck hearts, boudin noir wontons, clams in a spicy basil broth…. And to drink, the wine list strikes the same inspired tone: Vouvray demi-sec from Sébastien Brunet (€36), La Souteronne, a red from Hervé Souhaut in the Ardèche (€32 a bottle) and, by the glass, Bourgogne-Aligoté from Fanny Sabre (€6). Menu €25 (lunch), à la carte €44-62 (dinner). // H.S.P.