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Lerouge aux Lèvres

Lerouge aux Lèvres (La Rochelle)

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After popping open bottles for over 20 years, Stéphane Lerouge (ex-Louis XV in Monaco) became a bistro/natural wine shop owner in 2014. Located right near the market, seated in the sleek bric-a-brac space (vintage school posters, Formica tables) or on a lipstick red chair along the cobblestoned street, we happily dug into the well made plates by Guillaume Hilaire (ex-Guy Savoy). The night we went displayed some real first-rate cave à manger fare: creamy burrata with eggplant caviar; a delicious salad of haricots verts, chard, egg yolk preserved in soy and ham chips; tender veal rump with beautiful Provencal tomatoes; a giant cheese platter from L’Epicurium; before a deconstructed cherry cheesecake, for the no-less-thrilling dessert. FYI: the terrace is open from the first day of spring to the last day of fall. // V.B.

FEELING THIRSTY? Place your trust in Stéphane’s encyclopedic knowledge: Pet de Nonne, a sparkling Burgundy from Pierre Naigeon (€5.80 a glass); Pur C, a Pays-d’Hérault red from Guillaume Baron (€4.40); La Bohême, a Loire white from Marc Pesnot (€22 a bottle); along with other signature winemakers from along the banks of the Loire River (Chidaine, Villemade, Riffault, Puzelat) and elsewhere (Josmeyer, Pfifferling, Occhipinti…).

PRICE: Set menu €16-20 (lunch), à la carte €36.50 to €45.50 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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