Samenloop

Nearly a century and a half after this austere-looking orphanage shut its doors, the Maagdenhuis museum (literally “orphanage for the maidens”) is now open for visitors – and hungry ones at that! The old cafeteria smell is long gone, instead replaced by the mouthwatering aroma of wood-fired cuisine and fragrant spices, whipped up by a team of refugee cooks and newcomers to the country, under the tutelage of Davy Schellemans (Veranda, Café Commercial) and Victor Avonds (Victor). The day we went, served on grandma’s pretty old crockery: velvety-smooth celeraic hummus, thickened with butter and topped with salsify and a drizzle of orange juice, plus crispy falafels paired with shiso and a generous dollop of thick yogurt; cream of potato soup pimped out with baharat spice mix (cumin, clove, paprika and coriander); juicy Coucou de Malines chicken (supreme and thighs) sitting pretty in pearl couscous, alongside sickly sweet date cream and fresh salsa verde; before finishing with a slightly salted brownie, topped with buttermilk cream, beetroot chutney and beetroot whipped cream. // Schannul

FEELING THIRSTY? A dozen or so middling wines (like the Languedoc chardonnay from the Josselin winery or the rosso piceno from Ciù Ciù in Le Marche, both €26 a bottle), either that or Bron artisanal sumac kombucha (€6.60 for 200 ml) and homemade ginger and rosemary tea (€4).
PRICE: Set menu €45, extra sides €10-12.