Looking for the perfect stamcafé that has something other than endless pints? Head to Winery, where some of the capital’s finest natural wines have been hiding for the past two decades. At lunch, there’s a charming mix of chardonnay drinkers with glam blowouts and guys in sweatshirts enjoying a glass of poulsard, who don’t hesitate to let their hair down and get the bottles popping once night falls. Over in the kitchen, Benoît Bodivit and Teddy Bouillé (both did stints at Villa Lorraine in Brussels) are hard at work, whipping up some chic dishes, like extremely tender Iberian pork cheeks cozied up with an apple and passion fruit brunoise and some beetroot rounds, or red gurnard tempura (which could have been a little lighter) with roasted pineapple, carrot mousseline and thin candied ginger coins. And if you need something to soak up all the booze outside of normal kitchen hours, there’s Bellota ham cured for 48 months, duck rillettes or tinned sardines to snack on. //Molly Kale
FEELING THIRSTY? Tomasso Sofia, Nahida Khouwayer, Félix Bonneau and Aurore Willem dive into the cellar to their heart’s content: Mon P’tit Pithon, a Catalan red from Olivier Pithon (€6.70 a glass), Morgon Vieilles Vignes from Guy Breton (€35 a bottle), or a zero-dosage Alsacian crémant from Achillea (€41).
LES PRIX: Lunch menus €24-29, à la carte €35-50.
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