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The spinach-green facade and the not-so-joyous decor? They’re both just a smokescreen hiding this lair’s authentic Chinese cuisine, which encourages rookies to have faith and their luck will hold with each unmissable dish. On our table, this time: flawless pork fritters with sweet and sour sauce and a smoking-hot steamed whole bass, which we ordered alongside a smattering of vegetable sides – including some dazzling garlic bok choy and salt and pepper sautéed corn. We shared the meal surrounded by Asian expats, and for good reason: here, there is no Europeanizing trickery meant for tourists to the Land of the Setting Sun. Top tip: show up before 8:30pm to make sure you get a spot. // Rocky Simone

FEELING THIRSTY? The classic little green bottle (Tsingtao, €3 for 330 ml), a less obvious lychee juice (€2.50 for 330 ml) and an unclassifiable tea poured into small laminated cups (€2.50).
PRICE: Starters €6.50 to €10, mains €16-36.

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