Does Matthieu Léonard’s place feel a little too immaculate? It’s true that with its manicured decor – a marble bar, a central island with overhanging lights painted with koi, an antique chest of drawers brought back from Poland – and its ideal location, this angular spot that’s always packed has a very “best in show” feel to it. But don’t count on us to play the bully boys. In truth, you’ll find only kindness at this chic and well-oiled eatery that is centered around pasta fresca made in-house. Can you pay homage to the land of Dante without saying “prego”? We’d have to say absolutely, after this three-course lunch: simplified vitello with plenty of pepper and some clever briny notes thank to some added ice plant: an intensely flavorful carbonara that plays by Roman orthodox rules, with hearty meaty notes from the guanciale; and a tender tiramisu, which still could have used a less moussey mascarpone. Ma, we can’t help but nitpick a little… // Salty Litchi

FEELING THIRSTY? The extensive wine list has the good taste to avoid feeling like an Italian cliché: Côte Du Py by Jean Foillard (€49 a bottle), a gamay produced by Yvon Métras (€63), or Hurluberlu Et Hurluberlu, a Loire cabernet franc from the always fashionable Sébastien David (€7.40 a glass).

PRICE: À la carte €40-54.