In the same way that a new generation of Asian restaurants has emerged by shaking up the classics of the genre with explosive fusion flavors, there was reason to hope that a traiteur take-away shop would pop up in the same vein. Anh-Tu Pham (Nénu and Nénuphar) and Vladimir Litvine (Lily’s, Lola, Le Variétés, Odette en Ville) have given us exactly that, with added panache: an imposing marble bar, an open kitchen, overhead lamps raining down light and wooden shelves filled with bottles of sake. With its very “I’m sexy and I know it” attitude that ought to appeal to the clientele in the south of the capital, it certainly doesn’t disappoint. Not only because you’ll find the famous sautéed udon noodles with Italian sausage and chilies that contributed to the notoriety of the Vietnamese-native chef. But because of the large selection of dim sum (including the delicious pork and shrimp xiu mai); simple, but unstoppable deboned and grilled chicken thighs (a recipe that has existed since 1982 at Le Nénuphar, Anh-Tu’s parents’ family-style restaurant); or even the sautéed noodles and beef in black bean sauce. Want an insider tip? During the week, you can dine in at the bar. // Salty Litchi

The hidden gem: Unexpected desserts that are a cross between traditional French pastries and Asian products, like the black sesame millefeuille (€6) or the peanut éclair (€5.20).