After a little break, the Repos de la Montagne is now back in action! And who’s behind the Rabelais-style resurrection of this old, pigeon-friendly neighborhood joint in Uccle’s Little Montmartre? An acrobatting trio from the local scene: Benjamin “grand Ben” Rauwel, who’s also behind Dillens and Ivresse; Pierre-Antoine “P.A.” Duhayon, ex-manager of Dillens; and Pascal Kasongo, who worked at Café Flora and Château Moderne. They’ve kept the place in its original state, preserving its marketplace vibe, pigeons and woodwork, just adding to the mix some well-groomed plates effortlessly stitched together by chef Sophie Lozahic (ex-Gallifet Kitchen in Aix-en-Provence and Boavista Social Club in Lisbon). That evening: lip-smacking snail butter and mushrooms on toast; a massive portion of cauliflower cheese made with Comté, taking us back to our childhood, loaded with a side salad and unlimited fries; and figs (picked a hundred meters away) poached in Kriek beer and served with a stunning raw cream – just wow! Anyone with room for more is a hero. // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? A small, well-crafted naturophile list, featuring a chasselas from Domaine Otter (€6.50 a glass) and Nouvelle Lune, a pinot noir from Rohrer (€43 a bottle), both from Alsace, as well as Galoche, a beaujolais from Domaine Saint-Cyr (€42). With that, Zinnebir beer from Brasserie de la Senne (€4.10 for 250 ml).

PRICE: Menu €35-45.