In the Libé neighborhood, it’s practically customary to start – or end – your weekly market run with a stop at Cathy Garavagno’s teeny-tiny shop. One glance inside is enough to spark immediate cravings, for the dainty raw milk farmhouse goat cheese from the Caussols plateau; or a mildly comforting farmhouse cow’s milk tomme from La Brigue, where Cathy lives with her husband, Jean-Marc Otto-Bruc. The options from across the border are also tempting us in: seductive raw buffalo mozzarella and stracciatella from Cuneo – enough to make the vibrant hay-milk Bleu de Queyras blush, alongside delightful sheep’s milk cheeses (bouchons, Pérail, tomme) from La Blaquière farm in Aveyron. As for the Corsican brocciu from Aléria, you’ll have to wait patiently until November! Charcuterie lovers are equally spoiled: plump Perugina sausages, fresh or dried, take center stage, crafted by Gabriel in the Estéron Valley, who is also responsible for palate-tingling sobrasada and wonderfully funky chipolatas. Add to that an array of hams, chorizo and Bigorre saucisson; irresistibly rich raw cream from Ferme de l’Isle in Normandy; butter from Fontaine des Veuves in Brittany; and farm-fresh yogurts made with cow’s milk and fruit from Saint-Antonin. Round out your haul with a few natural wines, honey, beers (including bottle from La Storia), local olive oil and fresh eggs from activist-farmer Cédric Herrou! · Alban Mont
THE HIDDEN GEM: The exquisitely creamy chocolate pots (€2.80 each) lovingly made by Jean-Marc.
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