Grammes

Part-panificio, part-mini trattoria, neo-cook Angelica Magni’s Tuscan counter is pretty sweet and set to a backdrop that doesn’t feign Italian-ness at all costs (speckled tiles, Formica tables, vintage knick-knacks, stacked bags of flour). Her husband, Christian Lejour, provides the sourdoughs – vera schiacciata toscana (a kind focaccia with less rise), sourdough baguette, country bread – and on Saturdays, it’s a pastry party, with croissants, brioche, cramique and craquelin! Over on the deli counter, everything’s organic: deliciously simple pizzas (marinara, cipolle) or well-garnished ones (squash, olives, capers), tender leeks topped with deviled eggs, tangy polpette with pomodoro sauce, served by weight and in a jar, tiramisù and crunchy millefeuille. Take it all away or eat on the spot with Ignusa Sardinian beer, Theia Sicilian white wine or a mocha espresso. // Rocky Simone

THE HIDDEN GEM: The potato, sage and taleggio pizza (€6.50 a slice).