Under its tricolor banner, La Pantinoise distributes cheeses like others throw punches – all thanks to Sébastien Drique, a former editor at Libé, and a terroir-ist of raw milk, who is shaking up the Hoche neighborhood and all of its Yoyo strollers and cargo bikes. Spotted during our last trip to his shop: a figou from the Ferme de la Ribière, bleu de Gex from Haut-Jura, lorenthym from the Ferme du Gaec de Gaperan, Normandy Camembert from the Ferme du Champ Secret… And he doesn’t skimp on the other dairy-based treats (Bordier butter, La Hulotte chocolate mousse or Isigny fromage blanc), the artisan charcuterie served by the slice or jarred, the ice creams by La Tropicale and just the right amount of natural and organic wines… Get ready for a real showdown! // Henriette Ma

THE HIDDEN GEM: A farm-fresh picodon marinated in olive oil and oregano, aged by the Maison Cavet in Dieulefit in the Drôme department (€4.80 a piece).