Qualité Vin

A normcore name with a rainbow-colored logo and an owner sporting blue hair: there’s no doubt about it, you’re right in the heart of Quatre-Chemins, a lively alternative neighborhood between Aubervilliers and Pantin. That’s where Auvergne native Fanny Ritter, formerly of Capri Bazar and the catering company Kook, runs a naturopathic wine shop with a name that says it all: Qualité Vin. Decked out in unpolished concrete and industrial finishes, with a maximalist-minimalist aesthetic designed by her architect partner Milo Galli, she lines up classic bottles, magnums and even boxed wine at very reasonable prices. You might find a Cadet de la Bégude, an enticing Bandol red (€16), or a muscadet from the Domaine de la Tourlaudière (€10.50)… For other kinds of thirst, there’s Põhjala or La Marmotte Masquée canned beer (€4 and €7 for 330 ml), Umà ginger beer, kefir, kombucha… And from time to time, informal masterclasses about wine. Cheers to Greater Paris! // Kelly Slatée  

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Vendémiaire by Vincent Chauvelot, a red made primarily with genouillet, a varietal from the Berry that’s on the brink of extinction.