Attack of the giant ants! No, this isn’t a remake of Vermin, but rather an art installation by contemporary artist Michelle Trotta, on display in Marie Audoux’s cheese shop. The Aubertvilliers-native, who used to work in the contemporary art world, is now a newly-minted cheesemonger who continues her quest for the best dairy products near Aubervilliers’ town hall, in a space with lots of bricks and big windows that’s always filled with customers. And for good reason: creamy reblochon, Savoie tomme made with raw milk, good Corsican sheep’s milk A Fileta, brie de Melun, churned butter from Charentes-Poitou, farm-fresh raw cream… All that in addition to the traditional charcuterie, extremely fresh farm eggs, sourdough bread, craft beers, organic and natural wines at affordable prices, Symples herbal teas, honeys and jams, among other options. You should have no problem filling up your tote bag! // Tino Rôti 

THE HIDDEN GEM: The cremoso taleggio (€36/kg).