Burn baby, burn! Julie Gallois (ex-Café Les Deux Gares and Causeries) and her crew are setting the neighborhood alight with Briquet, a charming, snug little bistro on Rue Riquet where carefully sourced natural wines spark against brutalist-style counters and funky small plates. True to their “big thirsts, small bites” mantra and fueled by the fiery art direction of Cagnard Studio, the team pulls out all the stops to quench the cravings of the canal Saint-Martin cool crowd. That evening, the menu cruised effortlessly: burrata slicked with smoked oil sitting pretty with late-summer plums; deeply flavored Aveyron charcuterie; a generous slab of pâté en croûte from Viande Viande; roasted figs and feta hit with hot sauce… before sealing the deal with a chewy cookie or a gloriously nostalgic chocolate-chip brioche. At lunch, it’s sandwiches central, from the iconic ham, butter, Comté and pickle combo, or a vegetarian version loaded with roast vegetables and smoked ricotta. And every so often, guests chefs pop by to reignite the flame – just enough to whet your appetite and keep you coming back for more. · Herber Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? Sommelier Virginie Daunas keeps natural wine lovers smiling with wallet-friendly pours: a saint-pourçain from Vignoble des Vernusses (€5 a glass), a Jura white from Céline and Steve Gormally (€30 a bottle) or a Rhône red from Martin Texier (€33). Staying dry? Archipel kombuchas (€6 for 330 ml) and Nos Jardins Imparfaits sodas have you covered (same price).

PRICE: Small plates €4-12, sandwiches €6-9.50, desserts €3.50-7.