You reap what you sow… even when it comes to the tides! While Paris has seen a steady decline in fishmongers, Vent et Marée stands out as a beacon in the night for the bustling Laumière neighborhood. And it’s no accident that’s there’s always something good wriggling around in its nets: all of the fish and shellfish on display has been expertly chosen by Sylvain Dey, who gets up at dawn to unearth the best the sea has to offer. Not to mention the refrigerated display case that showcases trout roe, salmon, herring, lobster and Cognac bisque, langoustine soup and homemade preparations, like the vivifying prawns marinated with dill, the comforting paella or even the incredible tuna lasagna, a briny twist on the classic dish! The epitome of a good time (in addition to the generous shellfish platters) are the house’s sushi and sashimi platters. So cast off and set sail! // Jane In

THE HIDDEN GEM: The delicate homemade cod roe and sea urchin taramasalata (€5 for 100 g).