Silax

Silamaka Soukana, alias Silax, has known a lot of hardship: housing struggles, racism, contempt from the major players in the restaurant business…  Twenty years working in the industry all across the globe (Paris, London, Kuwait, Dubai, Mali) sharpened the skills of this talented pastry chef, who set out on his own after the Covid lockdowns. Ever since then, Silax has been making sparks fly: thunderous éclairs; an impressive candied fig, honey, lemon and raspberry syrup tartlet on a palais breton shortbread crust topped with raspberry compote; or you could opt for the incredible Paris-Brest, which has already earned itself quite the reputation thanks its discreet but clever take on the classic pastry (the crème pâtissière is replaced by a praline mousseline with toasted hazelnuts). Consider yourself warned: it’s slim pickings by the end of the day. // Albert Gredinbar 

The hidden gem: The Coco Djambo, a coconut mousse with a mango-passion fruit insert and crunchy white chocolate (€5.80).