Call it an unidentified drinking object, Arsouille is far too unruly to be pigeonholed. Depending on when you drop by, this hangout from globetrotting wine lover Dorian Guittet and his accomplice Chris Rodrigues (ex-Nakama in Rennes) plays wine shop, café, canteen or neighborhood grocery, keeping hunger and thirst equally entertained, with sharp picks and left-field bottles for adventurous drinkers – and anyone else game enough to join in! All without losing sight of the local playbook: here, a downright banger from Bruno Duchêne gets cozy with pan con tomate; there, an anything-but-shy number from Jean-Louis Tribouley flirts outrageously with Mangalitza ham; and nearby, a Clos du Tue-Boeuf goes Catalan in the company of mountain Manchego. Ten out of vin! · Edna Maude

Ordered: A loco local cheese plate (€8.50), Escala anchovies (€9) and a bottle of L’Insolent, a pineau d’aunis and pinot noir blend from François Écot (€21, plus €10 corkage fee).