In Banyuls-sur-Mer, where cool little shops rise up like loaves of bread, gluten-lover Caroline Fernandez (a former humanitarian journalist who then worked at the Vinaigrerie La Guinelle) decided to sell some of her own, made with homemade levain and farmer’s flours grown nearby, like rye from Elne and heirloom wheats from Le Moulin de Pomaïrol. But first, she renovated this former wine shop with bistro mainstays (cement floors, tiled walls, a rustic counter), where she bakes up a storm in her open laboratory: delicious little country loaves; Aigues-Mortes fougasse made with panettone levain (the baker’s proudest creation); seasonal scrocchiarella (flat and crispy focaccia) topped with seasonings from Émilie Kelly and Olivia Martinez – or Kalamata olives, red onions, cumin and sesame seeds; and for anyone with a sweet tooth, the small braided cardamom brioche buns go down easy. // Nour Passages 

THE HIDDEN GEM: The oh-so delicious rye tourte (€9/kg).