Whether he’s stewing up seafood from Argelès or organic vegetables from Alex Baron in Latour-Bas-Elne and Simon Redondo in Céret, slow-foodie Renaud Caspar does things right at his bric-a-brac spot (unfinished walls, antiques, mismatched chairs). On the blackboard menu the night we went: tender butter beans with orange and mojama (salt-cured bluefin tuna); miraculously good anchovies from L’Escala with grilled watermelon; delicious bonito tataki from Le Port de La Selva with beetroot and hummus; exquisite grilled calamari and blood sausage with fennel and chanterelle mushrooms from the Roussillon department; before a sweet rice pudding with strawberries and licorice. // P.L. & G.V.

FEELING THIRSTY? Clean options only: Grenache in white or vin gris from the Domaine des Salicaires in Canet-en-Roussillon (€5.50 a glass), a pet’ nat’ white from Jean-Louis Tribouley in Latour-de-France (€25 a bottle), a red blend from Bruno Duchêne in Banyuls (€36)… Along with local craft La Boc beer (€5 for 500 ml).

PRICE: À la carte €31-51, kids’ menu €9.