Thirst things first: Carole Yahmi, a leading light of natural wine, has spent twenty years championing the firebrands of the no-added-sulfites movement, quenching thirsts and hearts alike. For her first stint behind the bar, she waxes lyrical about her bottles with an easy eloquence, free and rolling as the Mediterranean peeking out beyond the fish market. Here, wine is as much a subject of conversation as answer to thirst. Calek, Azzoni, Anders, Mazel, Bock… Wines from the Hérault, naturally, but plenty from Anjou too – a natural-wine stronghold, after all – alongside some proper sustenance: œuf mayo, prawns flambéed in pastis and pot-au-feu, when she’s not hosting one of her friends’ pop-ups. · Roland Tarte

Drank: A glass of Gipsy, a Spanish verdejo vinified in Alsace by the boss’s cousin Farid Yahmi of Sons of Wine (€5.50), followed by a bottle of La Plage, an Auvergne gamay from Jean Maupertuis (€30).