Anne Majourel can rest assured: her successor Arnaud Mirabel (from the Bars Populaires group), who has been running La Coquerie since 2019, has kept the central kitchen-bar and the immaculate white tables. Better yet, chef Guilhem Blanc-Brude (ex-Dilia in Paris) has also preserved the six-course set menu, prepared using the catch of the day and vegetables from his kitchen garden. The night we went, with views of the Mediterranean below: a mullet goujon with pollen-infused hollandaise sauce, for the amuse-bouche; a sublime bluefin tuna sashimi sprinkled with capers and tangerine, camouflaging a mixture of cucumber, lacto-fermented asparagus, marigold and a Kalamata olive tapenade; a delicate shrimp/onion ravioli in a coriander-infused tomato water that was colored by saffron oil; a divine, roasted, line-caught wolfish steak, teamed up with a crab emulsion, a briny rosemary spelt wheat risotto and a rose-harissa condiment on the side; incredible roasted Aveyron lamb saddle paired with slow-roasted lamb shoulder, mashed potatoes with smoked butter and a shellfish jus; tangy plum marmalade served with a plume of wild fennel and a fermented milk ice cream; before a subtle creampuff with squash praline, topped with candied apricot. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? A naturalist wine selection where you’ll find a few treasures: a Hérault Carignan from Mylène Bru (€45 a bottle), a Corsican white from Antoine Arena (€60), etc.

PRICE: Set menu €65.