A singular bakery: sourdough starters, artisan-grown wheats, stone-ground flours, frustrating opening hours and an owner with exotic tastes… Damien Larderet was born in Sète, moved to Rio de Janeiro – whose residents are referred to as Cariocas, much like the dance – then came back to open this charming bakery along the banks of the canal, filled with decorative references to Brazil. You won’t find any chocolatines here (nor any pain au chocolats for that matter), but rather chocolate brioche (€25/kg), fig or almond-apricot bread (€10), olive fougasse (€10), pompes à huile (brioche made with olive oil instead of butter, insanely good, €12.50). Plus crispy pizzas (from €12 to €25/kg), like the one topped with local cheese, or the one with market-fresh mackerel, new potatoes, piment d’Espelette and lemon mayonnaise, plus dill, mint and cilantro, which came highly recommended. A special shout out for the amaretti, those delicious Italian cookies made with sweet almonds (€1.95 each). // Albert Gredinbar
The hidden gem: The outstanding homemade panettone, a finalist in the 2021 France championship. The price of glory: €30/kg.
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