After escaping Paris, London and Sydney, the Hérault-ines Marie-Sophie Canto (a journalist) and Chloé Jornet (who used to run Le Café Midi in Paris) returned to their hometown to open up this dashing bright pink bistro. It’s a lovely place for a glass of wine (French school chairs, a small hidden courtyard and orange banquettes) in a dusted off hangout of 68ers. In the kitchen, a series of chefs’ residencies take place: after the British media darling Jeff Cochran and the rising star Marguerite Parent (ex-Substrat in Lyon), it was time for Julie Caute (Dame Jane in Paris) to show us what she was made of. The night we went, we savored all of the following: whole broad beans served with cilantro pesto and whipped herb butter (a nod to the French apéro staple, radishes and butter); intensely flavorful fried artichokes alla giudia, beautifully paired with a smoked garlic mayo and black lime powder; a bueno ajo blanco with a touch of vinegar, plus lavender and toasted almonds for an added twist; then some rather bland mussels à l’escabèche, gochujang and steamed potatoes; before an airy gin baba with whipped cream and pomelo powder. // Victoria Bout
FEELING THIRSTY? : Punchy cocktails (€9-11), like the bittersweet Slushie (a blended tequila, cardamom, grapefruit and Basque bitters cocktail), and a naturalist wine list: an pure Assyrtiko white from the Greek winery Ligas (€5.50 for a half-glass), a red from La Baladeuse in Provence (€6.50 a glass) or Déferlante Blanche, an orange wine from Olivier Cohen in the Languedoc (€28 a bottle).
PRICE: : Plates €5-18 and tasting menu options €36.
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