Restaurant Leclère (Montpellier)

© Guilhem Canal

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A dark airlock, a narrow shimmering hallway, stainless steel ceilings, atmospheric lighting… Welcome to the talented Guillaume Leclère’s new spaceship, who turned off the lights at his bistro on Rue de la Valfère in order to provide the people of Montpellier with a gastronomic space odyssey. The food supplies for our mission? Thin slices of flash-seared cuttlefish and cosmic squid ink chips, all topped with yogurt and marigold leaves for lift-off; a really beautiful piece of firm butternut squash, surrounded by porcini mushroom duxelles; razor clams and thinly sliced haricots verts, under a veil of almond mousse, basil crumble and sea water jelly that launched us into orbit; a generous portion of meagre served with a emulsified fish soup and a beetroot ravioli with onion compote and blood orange caramel glaze; and for a gentle landing, a roasted white peach served with shiso ice cream and a chocolate constellation. Houston, send us back up! // Zoé Deray 

FEELING THIRSTY? A very southern selection of wines: a Corsican Nielluccio by Yves Leccia (€9 a glass), a Catalan white from Olivier Pithon (€36 a bottle) or a Languedoc wine from Le Clos Maïa (€50), a Terrasses-du-Larzac by Le Mas Julien (€73)… 
PRICE: Fixed-price menu €50 (lunch) and €75 (dinner). 

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