Following in the footsteps of Amélie Darvas and Gaby Benicio (ex-Haï Kaï in Paris) who left to open Äponem in 2018, Parisian chef Takétomo Lulu Sumi (ex-Ito Chan) headed south to the Hérault region. Looking just as relaxed here in Mikado (exposed stone walls, a paneled bar, blonde wooden furniture), the Japanese chef sent out some meticulously made dishes the night we went: duck breast with a spice crust that was perfectly pink inside; oyster mushroom tempura with no hint of grease; glistening pork gyoza; soba noodles with pollack fillet in a heavenly shiso-wasabi broth; extra crispy karaage chicken; and an incredible ramen made with wheat noodles, caramelized pork, nitamago egg, bamboo shoots and scallions, all swimming around in a pork broth with mirin, yuzu and a sesame cream! // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Thoughtful wines (an Hérault white from Le Vin des Potes at €4.50 a glass or Siffle-moi, a red from the same winemakers at €22 a bottle), Kirin beer (€4.50 for 330 ml) and even a few cocktails, like the one that combines Hendrick’s gin, blackberry liqueur and sparkling sake (€10).

PRICE: Set menu €12 (lunch), plates €3.50 to €16 (dinner).