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Jaja

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A bar you enter via the restroom? Once past the improbable disco toilets, you’re fully seasoned for exploring this wonderfully unclassifiable spot – somewhere between a shady beer bar and grandma’s living room, all bathed in dim light that barely illuminates the handful of tables where quiet conversation hums. This is a bar d’auteur, run with discreet charm by Lyse Nippert, who handles wine with knowledgeable nonchalance, and where both passers-by and locals can sip serenely and nibble local bites, if the fancy takes them: tarte flambée variations (€10 for the classic), textbook charcuterie boards (€13-21) and a croque monsieur made on country bread (€7.50). Expect joyful wines and beverages to match: Jaja, the delicious house white from the renowned local vineyard Rieffel (€5 a glass), Geiss, a pinot noir from Muller-Koeberlé (€6.50) or a 2021 Bambolina from La Voluta for a southern excursion (€33 a bottle). Beer loves aren’t left behind: Météor (€3.20 for a half-pint) or cans from Les Intenables in Rosheim, like the Kanish Royal raspberry sour (€9 for 440 ml) to round out the liquid asstes. · Pascal Diagonale

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